A tech journalist and AI researcher with over a decade of experience covering digital innovations and emerging technologies.
When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.
This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.
“I’m completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.
The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.
A tech journalist and AI researcher with over a decade of experience covering digital innovations and emerging technologies.